My List of Things To Do while visiting Dublin
CAUTION - THIS HAS TURNED INTO A LONG POST - I’ve been asked so many times over the years by lots of great people “what should I do when I visit Dublin?” and like My Top Ten Places To Visit in Ireland I trawled through lots of old emails and added some new items to the long list below.
To make it a little easier I’ve done my best to list out things to do under various categories as follows - Architecture, Food, Galleries, Golf, History, Museums, Music, City Parks, Pubs, Sport, Tours, Whiskey, and of course some Day Trips from Dublin - and you can click on these to be taken to the relevant place in the article to save you scrolling.
Some notes before you jump in. I will continually come back to this piece to update as I get asked about various things to do that I may not have included initially. You should be aware that the list is based on my own personal experience of growing up on the Dublin/Wicklow border and I’m happy to take any suggestions for items/places to include as I know there are many new places opening, and sadly great old places closing. There will also be overlap between the the various categories that I outlined above so you may find a few “double entries” and that will be a clue to you that you really should visit these!
A little background on Dublin
Dublin is the capital city of the Republic of Ireland and is located on the east coast of Ireland at the mouth of the River Liffey. It’s the largest city on the island of Ireland and has a population of 544,000 (Dublin City in 2019) or 1,388,000 (Dublin County in 2019). Dublin boasts Ireland busiest airport and seaport, the seat of government of the Republic of Ireland, Dáil Éireann at Leinster House.
Dublin dates back to the first century BC when it was known as ‘Dubh Linn’ which translates to ‘Black Pool’. However, the present city was founded by the Vikings in 841 AD and it served as a military and judicial base after the Normans invaded Ireland. From the 14th to 16th centuries, it came under the control of the English from where the phrase beyond the pale originated. Dublin's Irish name, Baile Átha Cliath, meaning Town of the Hurdle Ford derives from the time The Celts were settled at a ford over the river, near the present-day Father Mathew Bridge on Church Street.
Architecture
If architecture is your thing then Dublin is a great city for you to visit. As a result of many centuries of outside architectural influences there is a great breadth of incredible buildings to see and visit in Dublin. This piece by Arch Daily lists 30 Architectural Things To See & Do and is a great starting place for you architecture buffs out there. From a personal point of view “must see’s” would include Dublin Castle, St. Stephens Green, and Trinity College.
Food
Dublin's culinary landscape offers a delightful journey through traditional Irish cuisine, providing a taste of the city's heritage and local flavors. Sheehan's on Chatham Street is a quintessential stop for those seeking the hearty comfort of Beef & Guinness Pie, a classic dish that embodies the rich flavors of Dublin. For a unique Irish culinary experience, Gallagher's Boxty House presents its Boxty Pancakes, a traditional potato dish that showcases the simplicity and appeal of Irish country cooking. The Dublin Coddle at The Quays Restaurant offers a taste of authentic Dublin fare, a warming stew that's harks back to a bygone era, while Leo Burdock's, renowned for its Fish & Chips, provides a quintessential Dublin experience, serving up crispy, golden delights that have been cherished for generations.
For a hearty start to the day, Bewley's Cafe on Grafton Street serves an iconic Irish Breakfast, a must-try for those looking to indulge in the full Irish experience. The Old Storehouse is another celebrated venue, where visitors can savor the rustic charm of Shepherd's Pie, a dish steeped in comfort and tradition. For those with a sweet tooth, Murphy's Ice Cream offers artisanal treats with an Irish twist, using local ingredients to create flavors that are distinctly Irish. Lastly, a visit to Dublin wouldn't be complete without enjoying a famed 99 soft-serve ice cream from Teddy's, a simple yet iconic treat that has become a beloved part of Dublin's food culture. It’s located in Dun Laoghaire to the south of the City Center but is well worth the trip!
Barmbrack is a seasonal baked - around Halloween - yeast bread with added sultanas and raisins and for those of you who are in Dublin at this time you find this list of local bakeries a great starting point when it comes to finding some delicious examples.
If all of the above if too much for you to take in let my old school pal Ruairí guide you on his Dublin’s 10 Tastings walking tour.
The restaurant scene in Dublin, like most international cities, is ever changing, particularly in this post-pandemic world. On top of that it’s 16 years since I lived in Dublin so lots of restaurants have come and gone in that time. So what I’m going to do here is to share links to pieces written by folks who know more about what’s happening in the restaurant scene in Dublin than I do.
Dublin’s Michelin Awarded Restaurants - 38 Essential Restaurants in Dublin by Eater - The 13 Best Restaurants in Dublin Right Now by Time Out - The 19 Best Restaurants in Dublin from Irish Road Trip
Galleries
Dublin is a vibrant hub for art enthusiasts, boasting an impressive selection of galleries that span from classical to contemporary art. The National Gallery of Ireland, located in the heart of Dublin on Merrion Square, is home to the nation's premier collection of Irish and European art, offering over 2,500 paintings and approximately 10,000 other works in different forms. It's a sanctuary for art lovers, where the works of Vermeer, Caravaggio, Picasso, and Van Gogh grace the walls. On the contemporary front, the Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA), situated in the historic Royal Hospital Kilmainham, presents a dynamic range of modern and contemporary art, focusing on innovative and challenging exhibitions that reflect the changing nature of art and its societal impact.
For those with an affinity for early 20th-century art and contemporary exhibitions, the Hugh Lane Gallery is a treasure trove, famous for housing the renowned Francis Bacon's studio and a remarkable collection of modern art. The Douglas Hyde Gallery, located within Trinity College Dublin, offers a unique space dedicated to showcasing cutting-edge contemporary art, often focusing on artists who have not had significant exhibitions in Ireland. Meanwhile, the Royal Hibernian Academy (RHA) stands as a pillar of support for artists, hosting annual exhibitions that highlight the work of its members as well as other Irish and international artists.
Golf
Dublin offers an array of exceptional golfing experiences, catering to enthusiasts of all skill levels, whether they seek the challenge of a championship course or the relaxed pace of a nine-hole round. In the north of Dublin, The Island Golf Club stands out with its stunning links course, surrounded by the Irish Sea and offering a pure golfing experience amidst natural beauty. The Royal Dublin Golf Club, another prestigious venue, provides a historic and challenging links course that has hosted many national and international championships. Portmarnock Golf Club is renowned for its classic links course, providing a challenging yet fair test for golfers, set against the backdrop of the picturesque Irish coastline. For a quicker round or for those honing their skills, Sutton Golf Club offers a well-maintained nine-hole course with varied play and scenic views.
In the south of Dublin, the golfing landscape is equally impressive and varied. Elm Park Golf Club presents a parkland course that combines a serene environment with strategic design, appealing to golfers who enjoy a more relaxed setting. Powerscourt Golf Club, set in the stunning estate of Powerscourt with its two distinct courses, East and West, offers golfers the luxury of choice and diversity in play, set against the backdrop of Wicklow's rolling hills. The European Club, known for its rugged dunes and challenging layout, provides a links experience that attracts serious golfers seeking to test their skills against the natural elements. For those looking for a shorter play or just starting out, Ballinascorney Golf Club offers a nine-hole course that promises enjoyment and a friendly atmosphere amidst the beautiful Dublin mountains.
History
In the heart of the city lies Dublin Castle, a monumental structure that has stood for centuries as a symbol of English power and later as a seat of Irish self-governance. Its architecture and exhibitions tell stories of power, politics, and pomp. Nearby, Trinity College Dublin houses the Book of Kells, a stunningly illuminated manuscript created by Celtic monks around 800 AD, showcasing the intricate artistry and scholarship of medieval Ireland. The General Post Office (GPO) on O'Connell Street is another landmark, known for its pivotal role in the 1916 Easter Rising; today, it stands as a testament to Ireland's struggle for independence, with its Witness History exhibition bringing the events of the uprising to life.
A bit further from the city center, Kilmainham Gaol stands as a somber reminder of Ireland's fight for freedom, having housed many of the nation's political prisoners throughout its history. Tours of the jail offer insights into the harsh realities faced by those who were incarcerated there, many of whom were leaders of Irish rebellions. Glasnevin Cemetery, Ireland's largest burial site, serves as a repository of the nation's history, with guided tours that recount the lives of many prominent figures interred there, including Éamon de Valera and Michael Collins. Croke Park, home of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), is not only a sports venue but also a cultural institution, with its museum celebrating the history and significance of Gaelic games in Irish identity.
The city's spiritual history can be explored through its ancient churches and cathedrals. St. Michan's Church, known for its crypts with mummified remains, offers a unique glimpse into Dublin's religious and architectural history. Christchurch Cathedral, with its origins in the Viking settlement, stands as a monument to Dublin's ecclesiastical heritage, its architecture and relics reflecting the city's medieval past. St. Patrick's Cathedral, another architectural masterpiece, is steeped in history, serving as a place of worship and a memorial to Irish history, with Jonathan Swift, author of "Gulliver's Travels" and former Dean of the cathedral, buried there.
Museums
Dublin, a city rich in history and culture, is home to an array of museums that capture the essence of Ireland's heritage and the spirit of its people. The Little Dublin Museum offers a cozy and intimate look at the city's past, presenting a collection of over 5,000 artifacts that tell the story of Dublin's development. The National Library of Ireland serves as a treasure trove of Irish knowledge, providing access to a vast collection of books, manuscripts, and photographs that trace the nation's literary and historical journey. Meanwhile, the National Museum of Ireland is dedicated to preserving and exhibiting artifacts that cover Irish archaeology, decorative arts, history, and natural history, offering a comprehensive view of Ireland's rich cultural heritage.
For those interested in the stories of Irish diaspora, EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum offers an interactive experience that explores the global impact of Irish emigrants. The Chester Beatty, located in the heart of Dublin Castle, is a must-visit for art lovers, showcasing a remarkable collection of manuscripts, rare books, and other artistic treasures from around the world. And for whiskey lovers like me the Irish Whiskey Museum takes visitors on a journey through the history and revival of Irish whiskey, with engaging tours that include tastings of the famed spirit.
Music
Traditional Music - We love a good “session” in Ireland and all around the country you’ll find great pubs with traditional music played by local musicians. Dublin is no exception and Dublin has some great pubs that host traditional Irish music sessions. Devitt's, a Camden Street staple, is celebrated for its cozy atmosphere and live music sessions, where the sounds of fiddles and tin whistles create a truly Irish ambiance. The Brazen Head, reputed to be Dublin's oldest pub, offers a journey back in time with its medieval charm and regular traditional music nights, making it a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Sin É, on the banks of the River Liffey, is known for its eclectic vibe and dedication to the Irish music tradition, hosting some of the best live sessions in the city.
The Old Storehouse, nestled in the heart of Temple Bar, is a magnet for those looking to immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Irish music and cuisine. O'Donoghue's, with its historical connection to the famed Dubliners folk band, remains a pivotal venue for traditional Irish music, drawing in a crowd eager to experience authentic Irish culture. The Cobblestone Pub, situated in Smithfield, is often described as a 'drinking pub with a music problem,' offering an intimate setting where musicians gather to share tunes and stories. Darkey Kelly's, another gem, combines the allure of live traditional music with a haunting history, providing a unique backdrop for a night out in Dublin.
For those willing to venture a bit further from the city centre, The Merry Ploughboy and Johnnie Fox's offer distinct experiences that are well worth the journey. The Merry Ploughboy, owned and run by musicians, offers a truly immersive experience with performances that blend music, dancing, and storytelling. Johnnie Fox's, perched in the Dublin Mountains just up the hill from where I grew up, is famed as Ireland's highest pub and is renowned for its lively music sessions and hooley nights.
Other Live Music - The 3 Arena, one of Dublin's premier concert venues, stands as a beacon for international artists and music lovers, offering a state-of-the-art experience with a capacity to host thousands. Vicar Street, slightly more intimate but no less iconic, is revered for its excellent acoustics and has become a favorite spot for both musicians and comedians, offering a more personal live music experience. The Olympia Theatre, with its ornate Victorian architecture, adds a touch of elegance to the live music scene, hosting a wide range of performances from rock concerts to theatrical productions, making it a cherished venue among performers and audiences alike.
For those in search of a more grassroots music experience, Whelan's is a landmark in its own right, known for showcasing up-and-coming local talent as well as international acts in a cozy, pub-like atmosphere. The Grand Social, with its quirky decor and rooftop terrace, provides a lively space for an eclectic mix of live music events, from indie bands to DJ sets, fostering a vibrant community of music enthusiasts. The National Concert Hall, serving as the classical heart of Dublin's music scene, offers an elegant setting for performances ranging from symphony orchestras to solo recitals, making it a key venue for those seeking a refined music experience.
Parks
Whether you're in the mood to catch a vintage movie in a verdant Georgian square or explore a midday farmers' market, Dublin's parks have something for everyone. The city's cherished green spaces, including the secluded Iveagh Gardens, ideal for picnic afternoons, and the historic St Stephen’s Green, known for its public executions until the 1770s, are just the beginning.
Experience Dublin like a local by taking a bike ride through Phoenix Park, one of the largest enclosed parks in Europe, accompanied by a herd of fallow deer. Discover the Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square or enjoy a peaceful break in Dubh Linn Gardens, nestled behind Dublin Castle.
Pubs
We love a bit of “craic” in Ireland and the pub is where much of it happens. There are no end of fantastic pubs in Dublin City and County and everyone has their favo(u)ite place to go for a pint so everyone and anyone you ask will give you a different list. I’m not going to write about all of them here and instead I’ll share a few of my favo(u)rite watering holes and I’ll share links to some other articles on pubs that will give you endless choice of great place to visit.
Doheny & Nesbitt, located on Baggot Street, is a classic Dublin pub with a rich political and literary history, offering a traditional Irish pub experience with its cozy nooks and an extensive selection of drinks. McDaids, a former morgue turned pub near Grafton Street, is steeped in literary history and known for its unique character and association with Irish writers, providing a distinctive ambiance that captivates both the imagination and the spirit. The Brazen Head, reputed to be Dublin's oldest pub, is a treasure trove of history, offering a warm, inviting atmosphere and live traditional Irish music, making it a perfect spot to soak in Dublin's rich cultural tapestry.
A special mention goes to Johnnie Fox's, nestled in the village of Glencullen in the Dublin Mountains, and just up the hill from where I grew up. Reputed to to be the “highest pub in Ireland” Johnnie Fox's is celebrated for its live music, storytelling, and the renowned 'Hooley Show.' Its unique location in the Dublin Mountains offers not only a delightful escape from the city's hustle and bustle but also provides a picturesque backdrop that enhances the traditional Irish pub experience.
Dublin’s Oldest Pubs - Dublin’s Irish Whiskey Pubs - Dublin’s Live Music Pubs - Dublin Pub Food - Dublin’s LGBTQ Pubs & Venues - Dublin’s Early Houses
Sport
Witnessing a Dublin GAA match, be it Gaelic football or hurling, offers an authentic slice of Dublin's passion for sports, with the local teams often playing at the famed Croke Park, a venue that's as historic as it is iconic. For those with a penchant for the excitement of horse racing, Leopardstown Racecourse provides thrilling race-day experiences, showcasing some of the best in Irish and international thoroughbred competition, set against the backdrop of a top-class facility. Football/Soccer enthusiasts can catch the action of the National League, where a number of Dublin clubs play at various stadiums around the city, offering a chance to see up-and-coming talent and seasoned professionals alike.
Rugby fans are also in for a treat, as Dublin is home to Aviva Stadium, where the Irish national rugby team plays its international matches. The atmosphere here during a game is electric, capturing the essence of Irish pride and sporting excellence. Additionally, the RDS hosts Leinster Rugby matches, one of the leading teams in European rugby, providing an opportunity to see high-caliber club rugby in a venue known for its vibrant crowd and strong sense of community.
Tours
Take a bus tour as a way to see lots of sights on one loop with DoDublin or Hop-On-Hop-Off with sights to see on this including the Guinness Storehouse - Jameson Distillery Bow St. - Christchurch Cathedral & St. Patrick's Cathedral - Dublin Castle - Kilmainham Gaol - St. Stephens Green.
An old school friend, Ruairi, owns and runs a great walking tour company, Best Dublin Walking Tours, and if you're looking to get under the skin of Dublin and have a more intimate experience, I'd highly recommend some time with him.
If, like me, Irish Whiskey is your thing then let Derek King guide you on a great whiskey history walking tour.
Whiskey
Dublin has a long and storied history of distilling and is currently home to four operating distilleries. In addition to those there are some great Irish Whiskey experiences to be had along with shops and, you guessed it, pubs!
Distilleries
Dublin Liberties Distillery - Just opened for visitors and their whiskeys are not yet available here in the US.
Pearse Lyons - Located in a renovated church Pearse Lyons offers a number of great visitor experiences. Their Original, Distiller’s Choice, and Founder’s Choice are available in California.
Roe & Co - Located in the old power station of the Guinness Brewery this a great place to visit for some fun experiences. They only sell their core blended Irish Whiskey here in the States and offer a greater range to buy at the distillery.
Teeling Distillery - A distillery with strong and wide distribution here in the US that offers great visitor experiences. They sell whiskeys at the distillery that are both distillery-exclusive or only available in Ireland.
Shops
The Celtic Whiskey Shop is a dangerous place to go without a chaperone, and they will ship to the US for you! And a short 5 minute walk away is James Fox which is an equally dangerous place to go without a chaperone, and next door to the museum mentioned below! They will also ship to the US.
Experiences
The Irish Whiskey Museum - Located in the heart of Dublin on Grafton St. this is a great place to get lots of the history and backstories and enjoy a tasting. While Jameson Bow St. is no longer a working distillery the old Bow St. location offers a fantastic selection of visitor experiences, some history, and a retail space where you can find many difficult-to-find-in-the-US bottles. And let Derek King of Experience Irish Whiskey guide you on an intimate Irish Whiskey tasting experience, a cocktail class, or an Irish Coffee masterclass.
Pubs
Dublin's Irish whiskey pubs are not just places to enjoy a drink; they are institutions that embody the city's rich history and convivial culture. The Palace Bar, with its Victorian era charm and an impressive selection of Irish whiskey, stands as a testament to Dublin's literary and journalistic heritage, having been a favored haunt of writers and reporters. John Kavanagh "Gravediggers," nestled beside Glasnevin Cemetery, offers a unique and authentic Dublin experience, its traditional ambiance and lack of modern trappings making it a perfect spot to savor a quiet whiskey away from the hustle and bustle. O'Donoghue's on Merrion Row, famous for its traditional Irish music and lively atmosphere, also boasts a fine selection of whiskeys, allowing patrons to enjoy a dram in a setting rich in cultural heritage.
The Long Hall, with its ornate Victorian decor and welcoming ambiance, provides a splendid backdrop for whiskey enthusiasts to explore their extensive selection. Bowe's, a quintessentially Irish pub located near Trinity College, is revered for its cozy atmosphere and impressive whiskey collection, making it a favored spot for both locals and visitors. Searson's, known for its elegant interior and hospitable vibe, offers patrons a modern yet traditional setting to enjoy their whiskey, alongside a reputable food menu.
Bar 1661 is named after the year in which the Crown (British Government) introduced a tax on whiskey production in Britain and Ireland and is famed for its selection of Poitín (the historical illicit spirit of Ireland) but also carries a truly impressive selection of Irish Whiskey.
Day Trips from Dublin
Glendalough - Glendalough, set in the scenic Wicklow Mountains National Park, is a mystical site where visitors can explore the ancient monastic ruins founded by St. Kevin. This serene landscape offers a spiritual journey amidst centuries-old churches and round towers, surrounded by lush nature. Ideal for a day trip from Dublin, it provides a peaceful retreat into Ireland's early Christian history and natural beauty.
Powerscourt Estate & Waterfall - Powerscourt holds a very special place in my heart and head with so many memories of time on the Estate for Easter Camps while in the scouts, visits to its stunning waterfall, and golf. Lots of golf with the 16th on the East Course my favo(u)rite Par 3 anywhere! The gardens at Powerscourt were voted number 3 in the world by National Geographic magazine and are well worth a visit. And opened in 2018 is the icing on the cake for me with the incredible Powerscourt Distillery making some fine Irish whiskey and offerings visitors great experiences to educate Irish whiskey novices and experts alike!
Newgrange & The Boyne Valley - Explore the ancient wonder of Newgrange, a UNESCO World Heritage site, just an hour's drive from Dublin. This prehistoric monument, older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids, offers a unique glimpse into Ireland's Neolithic past. In the Boyne Valley, immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of history, archaeology, and mythology that has shaped this enchanting region.
Slane Castle & Distillery - Slane Castle offers a captivating historical tour, showcasing its rich heritage and the Conyngham family's vibrant history. The tour also delves into the castle's legacy as a premier concert venue, featuring famous rock concerts over the years. It's an ideal day trip from Dublin, combining cultural enrichment with the scenic beauty of the Boyne Valley. The Slane Distillery offers a unique experience, immersing visitors in the rich history of Irish whiskey-making on the historical grounds of Slane Castle. The distillery provides various tours and experiences, allowing guests to explore whiskey production and enjoy tastings and cocktail classes.